Saturday, May 19, 2012

Crop ofcookbooks is ripe for the picking

By Kit Wohl (Chronicle Books; 240 pages; $60): This season's coffee table book focuses on 21 chefs from around the country, detailing through their biographies, menus, recipes and photos, their contributions to the culinary landscape.'Kitchen on Fire' By Olivier Said and Chef MikeC (University of California Press; 218 pages; $35): Authors Said and MikeC believe that "mastering a particular recipe is not the same as being a master in the kitchen." By Nigel Slater (Ten Speed Press; 591 pages; $40): British food writer Nigel Slater has built a following for his books that boast expressive prose and rustic, elegant photos. Put the skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the strawberries are soft and the liquid they release has reduced somewhat, 6 to 8 minutes. In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the yolks just to break them up, then whisk in � cup sugar; set aside. In a heavy nonreactive saucepan, stir together the cream, milk, salt and remaining � cup sugar, and set over medium-high heat. Carefully scoop out about � cup of the hot cream mixture and, whisking the eggs constantly, add the cream to the bowl with the egg yolks. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, stir the cream in the saucepan as you slowly pour the egg-and-cream mixture from the bowl back into the pan. Cook the mixture carefully over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it is thickened, coats the back of a spatula, and holds a clear path when you run your finger across the spatula, 1-2 minutes longer. Whisk the strawberry puree and the 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar into the chilled base. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to manufacturer's instructions. Per �-cup serving: 154 calories, 2 g protein, 12 g carbohydrate, 11 g fat (7 g saturated), 103 mg cholesterol, 52 mg sodium, 1 g fiber. Warm the extra virgin olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the wine and cook, stirring to dislodge any browned bits from the pan bottom, until the wine has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the stock, bay leaf and cheese rind; bring to a simmer, and cook to blend the flavors, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bread to paper towels to drain; season with salt and pepper. Per serving: 400 calories, 16 g protein, 18 g carbohydrate, 30 g fat (5 g saturated), 213 mg cholesterol, 271 mg sodium, 2 g fiber. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap; let rise at room temperature (about 72) for 18 hours, or until more than doubled. Return to room temperature by unwrapping and placing them on the counter, covered in a damp cloth, for 2 to 3 hours before needed. Supporting the disk with your knuckles toward the outer edge and lifting it above the work surface, keep stretching the dough by rotating it with your knuckles, gently pulling it wider and wider until the disk reaches 10 to 12 inches.

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